On trend: The new smoky eye
Modern takes on the classic smoky eye were runway favorites at the New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023. Pamplemousse Beauty saved you a front row seat to help you master this alluring makeup look.
Hot off the runway
The modern smoky eye originates from rock-and-roll concerts and runways, and while the look has a serious rebellious streak, it always manages to be glamorous. The Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows celebrated the enduring popularity of this undeniably sexy trend with modern updates.
Warm-toned browns ruled the runway at Tom Ford with a reinvented punk smoky eye. Eyes were rimmed in deep cocoa colors, followed by layers of lighter shades of brown eyeshadow and black eyeliner. Soft and blurry eyes made a statement at Jason Wu, where browns were highlighted by touches of gold in the inner corner of the eyes. Tommy Hilfiger celebrated the smoky eye’s darker side with shades of charcoal.
These seductive looks were balanced by glowing skin in barely-there foundations, allowing the eyes to steal the show.
The smoky eye is about the technique used to create the smoky, diffused look (by blending eyeshadows and eye pencil) and can be done with any color. While the look is often created with the colors of smoke, like greys and blacks, the “smoke” really refers to the blurry edges resulting from the brush-blending technique. Ironically, black is the one color to use with caution, as it can easily look too dark. It is best to begin your smoky eye journey with shades of browns
or greys. This is a deliberately messy and imperfect look, so have fun.
The quick smoky eye
The quick smoky eye is simple yet effective and perfect if you are a beginner or strapped for time. Apply an eye pencil (like a kohl, gel pencil, or gel eyeliner) on your lash line and inside waterline on the upper and lower lids. The lines do not have to be perfect. Now smudge the lines with a brush that has dense fibers and a short tip. (A Q-tip can work too.)
If you are using a long-wear eye pencil, move quickly and blur out the lines before the pencil dries and sets. Lighter colors are great for starting out, like medium browns and greys. You will be surprised by the subtle impact this look makes. Finish with two coats of mascara, and you have a coveted, smoldering appearance.
The classic smoky eye
The classic smoky eye is usually created with three shades ranging from light and medium to dark. Currently, rich, warm-toned browns are having a moment, and these versatile colors complement all skin tones. Medium-toned greys are another classic favorite.
After smudging an eye pencil on your lash line (see the Quick Smoky Eye above), use the darkest color from your trio to rim your eyes, applying shadow on your upper and lower lash line. The shadow rim should be slightly thicker than the eye pencil line. Blend the shadow and liner together with a dense brush in small circles.
Next, cover your entire upper lid in the medium color and add the lightest shade in the crease to soften the line of the medium hue. The three colors, from lid to crease, form a gradient that gradually fades out. Blend this area from the lash line out and upwards in small circular movements. To achieve the ideal smoky look, keep blending until all the harsh lines have disappeared. The colors should blend so seamlessly that they start to look lived-in and almost
natural. This is the sign of a successful smoky eye, and it mostly comes down to patience. Finish with a few coats of mascara.
Pro tip: Blend a little under-eye concealer on your upper eyelid to smooth out the area and give your eyeshadow extra hold. Alternatively, prime your lid with a neutral eyeshadow to create an even matte finish before application.
Four modern smoky updates:
1. Sparkling smoky eyes:
Instantly give the Classic Smoky Eye a modern finish by adding runway-inspired gold and silver eye shadows in the inner corners of your eyes. If you are ready for a more intense shimmer, apply a glittering shadow in the center of your upper and lower lids to create a halo effect . A touch of sparkle has the added benefit of opening your eyes and making them look bigger.
2. Soft smoky eyes:
Hailey Bieber reimagined the simple, soft smoky eye for her Met Gala look , where lighter browns and pinks were smudged together to create a sexy, hazy, smoky eye. Create this modern version of the smoky eye by blending-medium colored browns and pinks, following the steps of the Classic Smoky Eye above.
3. Grungy smoky eyes:
Olivia Wilde’s greased lids on the red carpet inspired a grungy take on the smoky eye. This look is literally finished with a touch of grease in the form of a lip balm, gloss, or vaseline, placed on the center of the eyelids.
To create this edgy smoky eye, rim the lash and waterlines with a kohl eyeliner and blend it outwards towards the tail of your eyebrows, concentrating the color on the outer corners of the eyes. This naturally leaves the center of the eyes clear, where you can dab a bit of grease and
softly blend it in.
The look is reminiscent of Marlene Dietrich’s 1920s smoky eye, which she created by holding a saucer over a burning candle, mixing the black “smoky” residue with vaseline, and applying it to her eyes!
4. Angular smoky eyes:
For a more defined finish to your eyes, add a winged liner to the Classic Smoky Eye. To give this look the full modern treatment, create an angular or V-shaped wing by elongating and blending the winged liner outwards, creating a blurry cat eye. The wing or tail of the triangle helps to give your eyes a lifted effect. The look, also called a chunky cat eye , is a current catwalk favorite.
On trend: The new smoky eye